This blog is about family travel around the world without leaving the UK. We do this in a bid to be less polluting and tackle climate change while at the same time keeping a global outlook. Leicestershire is a place my family haven’t visited much despite it's fascinating battlegrounds, role in the industrial revolution and upkeep of traditional rural crafts –
partly because it seems hard to get around, or at least it did until I found
these travel tips On my most recent get-to-know Leicester trip I took a train from
London-Grantham and a friend picked me up, but there’s a station in Melton
Mowbray and some buses. Words from Nicola Baird (see www.nicolabaird.com for more info about my books and blogs).
The Midland cities may have a certain grimness, eg Birmingham, Derby, Leicester and Grantham, but they are surrounded by heart-achingly beautiful shires. The town of Melton Mowbray is in a part of Leicestershire that is especially lovely and you may find your way there enjoying views of the dramatic
escarpment-sited Belvoir Castle. But almost any of the vales give you a huge
view as if you are looking down on the landscape from a glider.
I also love the wide and often uncut verges around Melton Mowbray, which during the summer are blanketed in wild flowers. The grass verge offers an escape route for cyclists and walkers if you are squeezed by a speeding car. In fact these verges are giant-sized compared to verges in other bits of England because the Leicestershire lanes were busy sheep drove roads - used to ensure passing flocks were able to graze as they travelled to the markets.
Eye spy Leicestershire: for your journey to Melton Mowbray
- Food: Stilton cheese, Red Leicester cheese, Pork pie
- Spot: Belvoir Castle
- Cheer for: Leicester longhorn cattle, Red kites over the fields/motorway
1) Melton Mowbray's got a great
museum & it needs saving
The Melton Carnegie Museum is a complete gem, but like so
many in the UK it is in great danger of having its funding cut. The exhibits
introduce the rural crafts that Leicestershire excelled in – and in some cases, eg, stilton making, still does. You can see
some of the old cheese making equipment at the museum. Or try sitting at a traditional pub
table and have a go at dominoes.
Suggestions to keep this museum going – don’t cut its
funding and add a café! There’s plenty of space near the two-headed calf. The
museum is already really child-friendly but with a café it would be brilliant.
2) The two-headed
calf at the Melton Mowbray museum
If you haven’t yet seen a two-headed (and two-tailed) calf
then you need to go and see this ginger beauty ASAP. It’s a sad story, as the
calf died very soon after being born, but a great way to get kids interested in
the exhibits.
3) It’s got great cheese, pies & food festivals
Melton Mowbray is one of the five homes of Stilton cheese as well as Melton Mowbray pork pies. The old bootmakers, saddlers and horse livery yards may be gone, but cheese is still in the town’s DNA.
You can try Stilton cheese any time, but a real treat should be the Artisan Cheese Fair from 30 April-1 May 2016. This claims to be Europe’s largest cheese fair, who’d have thought the UK did the biggest and best cheese fairs? You can also go to Melton Mowbray and buy local specialities from the Melton Cheeseboard.
Every autumn there's also the Melton Mowbray Food Festival from 3-4 October 2015 showcasing around 150 local producers’ tasty products including cheese, pies, gold-infused bubbly and steamed puddings.
4) Find out about
foxhunting
The Melton Carnegie Museum specialises in rural crafts including the trades
that support foxhunting. Melton Mowbray became the epi-centre of foxhuting after
Hugo Meynell popularised riding after hounds in the 18th century.
For the next 150 years, from winter to spring, the area was packed with the
bold and rich who would rent local houses in order to hunt with the Belvoir,
Cottesmore and Quorn. Many of the town’s trades developed to cater for the winter guests
including numerous livery stables which kept at least 1,000 horses.
Hunting raises very mixed emotions now, but at the start of the 20th century locals crowded to see the hunt set off. As many as 4,000 people on foot plus 300 riders turned up at the Quorn Hunt opening
meet in November 1912, see for yourself on this short clip from Media Archive for Central England.
Don't worry if foxhunting is not your thing: the Museum also has a showcase of items from the League Against Cruel Sports.
5) Paint the town red
Melton Mowbray is the town that got painted red (though not
necessarily the town that gave the world the phrase “paint the town red”).
On 6
April 1837 after a rowdy day at nearby Croxton Park races the Marquis of
Waterford and his friends rode to town for yet another drink. When the toll keeper refused them entrance he was barricaded
into his toll house and the toll gates painted red. The so-called gentlemen then ran
riot, painting everything red including house doors, a model swan on the roof
of Swan Porch, and even a policeman who tried to stop them.
It’d be fun to
repeat the Mad Marquis’s crazy antics, perhaps the next time South Asians
celebrate Mela there could be a historic mash-up? More detail about what the man who painted the town red
actually did is here.
6) It’s not all posh
history
This is the place where the dense Melton cloth was created and gets its name. Melton cloth is what donkey jackets are made from (remember the infamous scruffy coat worn by Michael Foot?).
This is the place where the dense Melton cloth was created and gets its name. Melton cloth is what donkey jackets are made from (remember the infamous scruffy coat worn by Michael Foot?).
7) Let’s go to Melton Mowbray for a
proper country market, how about next Tuesday?
This is market heaaven: Tuesday and Friday are market day with fruit and veg stalls, plus the usual. There is also an antiques/bric-a-brac market every Wednesday. Livestock markets (fur and feathers) are also on Tuesdays. And there is a farmers’ market (produce) on Tuesday and Friday. Plus a car boot sale on Sunday. Check opening and closing times here.
This is market heaaven: Tuesday and Friday are market day with fruit and veg stalls, plus the usual. There is also an antiques/bric-a-brac market every Wednesday. Livestock markets (fur and feathers) are also on Tuesdays. And there is a farmers’ market (produce) on Tuesday and Friday. Plus a car boot sale on Sunday. Check opening and closing times here.
8) Use your feet
Take a walk around Melton Mowbray to spot key historic sites including Anne of Cleeves house (part of her divorce settlement) and the impressively large St Mary’s Church, using this map.
Take a walk around Melton Mowbray to spot key historic sites including Anne of Cleeves house (part of her divorce settlement) and the impressively large St Mary’s Church, using this map.
9) Stay a while
There are loads of things to do in Leicestershire, have a
look at the stay, play, explore offers at www.goleicestershire.com
- This post isn’t sponsored, however I have been to Leicester on a previous press trip -you can see more Leicestershire day out and travel ideas here at Conkers (just over the border in Derbyshire) and Richard III Visitor Centre and the National Space Centre in Leicester.
1 comment:
Such an interesting blog!
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